Refinancing
Most refi calculators will lie to you. Here's one that won't.
Most calculators make refinancing look better than it actually is because they ignore how far you've already paid down your loan. This one adjusts for amortization so you can see the real math before you make a move.
Simple blended rate
Weighted average by balance
Stay vs. refi comparison
Total interest over life of loan
Breakeven calculator
How many months to recover closing costs
If someone only talks about your payment, you're not getting the whole story.
A lower monthly payment can still cost you tens of thousands more over the life of the loan. This page isn't here to push you into refinancing — it's here to show you the real math on your current loan versus a new one, in plain English.
Know Your Path
What kind of refinance are you actually considering?
Most people just say "refi" — but there are a few very different paths. Knowing which bucket you're in helps us have a much better conversation.
Rate-and-term refi
You keep roughly the same balance but change the rate, the term, or both. This is usually about lowering your cost, not pulling out extra cash.
Shorter term refi
You may keep your payment similar or a bit higher, but cut years off your loan and potentially save a large amount in interest over time.
Cash-out refi
You tap into your home equity to pull out cash for big goals — but you're also resetting part of your loan. The math has to justify the trade.
Debt consolidation refi
You roll other debts (credit cards, loans) into your mortgage. The payment almost always drops — the question is whether the long-term cost makes sense.
MI-removal / equity refi
If your home has appreciated and you've paid down principal, your loan-to-value may now be under 80%. That can mean removing mortgage insurance and restructuring on much better terms.
"Do nothing" is also a decision
Sometimes the best move is to leave a great existing loan alone. The calculator will help you see when it's smarter to stay put.
Equity & LTV
What if your home has gone up in value?
Maybe you bought with 10% down a few years back — since then, your home value and your loan balance have both moved, so your loan-to-value (LTV) today might look very different than it did at closing. If you're now under 80%, that can open the door to removing mortgage insurance, changing your term, or restructuring debt — but only if the math checks out.
Example: equity and MI removal
- ·Purchase: $640,000 with 10% down (90% LTV at close)
- ·Today's estimated value: +$60,000 appreciation
- ·Current balance: paid down from where you started
- ·Result: Your LTV may now be under 80% — where MI removal and better structures can come into play.
Use the calculator with your current balance and today's estimated value so the numbers reflect your real situation.
Common scenarios
This is an education tool, not a loan decision.
Use it to understand the math — then let's talk before you change anything.
The Blended Rate Calculator
The calculator I built when every other one got it wrong.
Most blended rate calculators just average your interest rates and ignore how far along you are on each debt. This one adjusts for amortization so you can compare your current setup to a new loan on real terms.
What this calculator is good at
- ✓Showing your true blended rate across your mortgage and other debts.
- ✓Comparing 'stay' vs 'refi' cost using your actual payoff timelines.
- ✓Helping you see when a lower payment really is a better deal — and when it isn't.
What this calculator can't do
- ✕It doesn't replace a full application or underwrite.
- ✕It doesn't account for every tax, insurance, or fee scenario.
- ✕It doesn't generate a rate quote or loan offer.
What this is: It blends your mortgage rate with any other debts you're carrying — credit cards, auto loans, HELOCs — into one true rate, so you can tell whether a cash-out refinance to pay them off is actually worth it, not just whether the payment looks smaller.
Home Value Today (optional, for context)
Use your best estimate — online values are fine. This just helps us understand your equity picture.
If you remember it, add it here so we can see how much your home has appreciated.
This does not create an official appraisal or home value. It just gives us a ballpark so we can talk about equity and options like MI removal.
Your Current Mortgage
Thinking about rolling other debts into your mortgage?
This section models a cash-out refinance where your new mortgage pays off specific debts at closing. Only add debts here if you're considering paying them off in full with cash from your refinance.
💡 Pro tip — check your credit card statement
Your statement has a box that shows: "If you make only the minimum payment, you'll pay off this balance in X years and pay $X in total interest." Use those numbers here for the most accurate comparison.
Debts to Pay Off with This Refinance
Auto loans, credit cards, HELOCs, personal loans you're considering paying off in full at closing.
For credit cards, enter your estimated payoff horizon (e.g. 3–5 years) — not a real term.
* Remaining interest is calculated off each debt's actual current balance and payoff schedule, not a flat estimate. All figures are estimates.
What to do with your result
Green doesn't mean "do it," red doesn't mean "never." It's a starting point for a real conversation.
Green: Worth a deeper look — the math is trending your way. Send this to me and let's confirm with real numbers.
Yellow: Borderline — there may be a version that works, or a better path (shorter term, partial prepay, etc.). Let's talk before you decide.
Red: Probably doesn't make sense right now. But that's not permanent — let's look at what would need to change.
Disclaimer: This tool is for educational purposes only. It does not display live interest rates, does not lock your rate, and does not constitute a commitment to lend or a formal recommendation. Actual terms depend on a full application, underwriting, and current market conditions.
When It Makes Sense
When a refinance can make sense.
Here are a few situations where this calculator often shows a clear "yes" — and a few where the answer is "probably not."
Often worth exploring
- ✓You're dropping a high-rate, interest-heavy second mortgage or HELOC.
- ✓You can remove mortgage insurance because your LTV is now under 80%.
- ✓You're moving from a much higher rate into a meaningfully lower one, with a reasonable timeline ahead of you in the home.
- ✓You're shortening your term and the total interest savings outweigh a modest payment bump.
Often better to pause
- –You're already in a very low fixed rate with many years of principal already paid down.
- –You only plan to stay in the home 1–2 more years.
- –The only reason is 'the payment feels high,' but the calculator shows a big increase in total long-term cost.
Get Your Refi Analysis
Want a second set of eyes on your numbers?
Fill this out and I'll walk through your scenario personally — including whether it might make more sense not to refinance.
Sharing your property address lets me run a quick, third-party value check so we're working from a realistic equity picture.
Not looking to refi?